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Besides, observing the goings on at this 9,000 square foot former Fresh Choice without judgment yields more sociological insight than simply dismissing the place as hopelessly sexist. For example, it would be easy, without actual study, to assume the literal male gazes of patrons toward the servers to be leering. But most of the looks we witnessed were not that at all. They were subtle, or even shy. Or perhaps shy is the wrong word. More like furtive, despite an implied invitation to stare openly.

So . the food. Twin Peaks’ “Billionaire’s Bacon Burger,” which mixes ground bacon into its beef patty before adding strips of bacon finished with brown sugar and cayenne, ranks among the better chain restaurant burgers I have tried. The caramelized bacon also adds a welcome touch of spicy sweetness to the salty/fatty goodness of Twin Peaks’ buttermilk chicken sliders. The “Mom’s pot roast” entree holds tender, expertly seasoned beef along with potatoes packed with flavor from having been sauteed with a garlic lime butter.

Twin Peaks has bucked a national downward trend for sit down casual restaurants (Hooters just closed another Sacramento location) by showing growth in its business. The 380 seat Sacramento Twin Peaks was close to full on a recent Friday night during which no big sporting event took place, and had to turn people away during the last game of the NBA Finals last week. After each period of the Warriors Cavaliers game, servers and bartenders performed a loosely choreographed,
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almost in unison dance routine.

The performers are backed by a “support staff” bussers and barbacks of men and some women who wear dark, loose fitting clothing, seemingly so as not draw attention to themselves. I saw these people but do not recall anyone approaching our table but the performer/servers, of whom there were many on busy nights but perhaps too few on slower ones. Sunday Thursday. Craft cocktails. Thirty two draft beers, including several local offerings. One red and one white wine.

Vegetarian friendly: There are optionsNoise level: Loud

Ambiance: A visit to this Howe Avenue sports bar and restaurant involves so much stimuli dozens of TVs showing sports, loud rock music, servers in skimpy outfits that it is a bit of a shock to the system. And although one can acclimate to some of these elements, it never quite becomes a comfortable place, despite all the wood paneling and comfort food.

Overall

The food is good by chain restaurant standards, and the servers are friendly. But despite efforts to stay open minded, the sexism is unavoidable.

Food 1/2

The “Billionaire’s Bacon Burger” is a winner, as are the buttermilk chicken sliders and green chili chicken soup and pot roast plate. The venison chili was too sweet, the chicken fried steak under seasoned and the tortilla chips and fries at times too salty.
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